Name Change

Yes I changed the name of this blog. Due mostly to the fact that I can't decide which direction to go with the project. I now have a 350 four bolt main block in addition to all the other stuff I have been collecting. The 350 as it turns out makes the project cheaper. Pistons are available from Summit Racing for a ton less than the pistons I would need for any of the other projects. I can also run a stock sized rod to save even more. I'm figuring I can get the rotating assembly together for just under $400. This setup will give me 9:1 to 9.2:1 compression, great for street use, and still safe to do a mild turbo setup. (not that I will but I could)

I used this Compression Calculator and the data:

4.03 bore

3.48 stroke

4.2 gasket bore

0.04 gasket thickness

70cc combustion chamber volume

-6cc piston relief

0.025 deck clearance

Of course thinner gaskets are available, as are thicker ones, I just used the most common thickness. I could use a 0.015 and bump the compression to over 9.5:1 or I could use a 0.06" thick gasket and lower the compression to 8.66:1. That's even better for a turbo. But from my years of reading about V8 Fieros, a turbo really isn't needed. I've been told that the current trans will barely be able to live behind the V8, let alone one with a turbo. The Camquest program says with the combo I'm looking at and a N+L79 cam (updated version of the old Corvette L79 cam) I'll have around 355hp. One HP per CID works for me. Yes I could use a bigger cam and push 375hp, but the N+L79 is supposed to have a decent idle, and let's face facts, I'm getting old and want a car that idles as smooth as possible. By the way, the 9.5:1 compression bumps the HP to 365.

Re-thinking the project...........again

I have the block, crankshaft and heads for a 1969 Camaro 307 (yes it's a chevy motor), I also have all of the pieces of a 3400 v6 except the block and heads. And of course I have the complete IronDuke engine that's still in the fiero.
My dillema is this...which engine should I build?
The 307 parts that I need are cheap (used on Ebay) and can be bought one piece at a time if needed. I can probably get the engine assembled for under $700.
The 3400 project will need a new block, heads and pistons. That will cost around $500.
With either engine I will need custom exhaust, custom flywheel and clutch, and fuel/ignition system modifications. But either of those engines will be very reliable, run nearly forever, and be fast.
The Duke motor, while not needing any custom mounts or specialty clutch, will require turbo fabriaction and computer/fuel/ignition mods. And after all that, might blow up in less than a year.
So I'm leaning towards the V-8 again, I want to build all three engines, mostly because I like building engines. I think the research I've done on the Duke would make it a very fun driver. But I've always wanted a V-8.
And if I go with the V-8, there will not be a turbo, just fuel injection and DIS ignition.
Hp estimates with the parts I'm looking at are 300hp to 340hp and 6500rpm redline. That will be fun.....

First Paid For Parts....

I finally bought something for the project. After going as far as I could on the free path, I purchased my first parts. I went to Ross Machine Racing's Ebay site and bought four weld in injector bungs and a 17" length of fuel rail. I now have enough material and parts to finish the intake manifold. The intake runners aren't straight so I'll need to place the injectors in just the right places so the fuel doesn't shoot into the wall of the head, and I'll need them to be at 33 degrees, not the typical 45 degrees that injectors are usually installed at. This is due to the almost flat path the intake runners take from the plenum to the valve, unlike a v6 or v8 where the plenum comes in from above the valve. Now I need to get the injector bung placement exact, drill the holes (notice I avoided the use of "bung hole"?) install the bungs and weld them in, then mock up the fuel rail and see if it will interfere with the plenum. If so, modify, if not continue welding the rest of the parts.

Megasquirt!

So after many wasted lunch breaks searching the net for info about converting waste spark systems to coil on plug (cop) or coil near plug (cnp) I came back to the Megasquirt web site (do not try megasquirt.com that is a porn site). During my research on their pages trying to determine which version of their ECMs would be best for me I found this page comparing Megasquirt ECMs. I think the MSII Sequencer would suit my needs the best, and it's small and it's pre-assembled (no soldering to screw up). It does sequential injection and runs individual coils like the LS coils I have. I might need a cam sensor, and if so all I would need is a used distributor. I would have to remove the pick up and module then fabricate a sensor mount for a GM cam sensor out of a newer car. So this all means I would have a sequentially injected turbocharged tech IV. If I can come up with the money when they finally release it. This Forum site has entries from people beta testing the Sequencer before final release. And I think I would probably wait a couple of months before purchase to give others time to post any info I might need. The Diyautotune site has the best selection I have found so far, and they are in on the beta testing so they should have a good idea of what should work with what.

Ignition problems before I start?

After thinking about my ignition plans for a while I started wondering if the coils were actually up to the task. Not their output abilities but their ability to fire as often as I need. In the original setup the LS series coils fire only once per power cycle, only on the power stroke. In a waste spark setup the coils fire on the power stroke and on the exhaust stroke. So if the maximum RPM that the coils could handle on the original setup is 6600 RPM, then in a waste spark setup they would top out at 3300 RPM. So assuming my assumptions are correct the LS coils will either overheat or output will taper off above 3500. Next idea was to use an ignition coil off of a Dodge 5.8 non hemi engine. The older style coil is designed to fire every pulse of a v-8. So at 6600 RPM that coil will fire 26,400 times were the LS coil will only fire 3300. But the output of the dodge coils is noticeably less, possibly less than the original waste spark coils, but they will run cooler than they would in the v-8 and I can run shorter ignition wires to the plugs for less resistance. So maybe I should just keep the original ignition.

Ignition Upgrade?

I now have in my possession eight GM LS1 coils with brackets and harnesses. My plan is to use an ECM out of a 1994 Cavalier with a 2.2 liter engine, this decision was made because the 94 cavalier was a multi port injection setup and uses a knock sensor. Neither of which the stock Fiero ECM will understand.

Cavalier 2.2 module

So looking at the wiring diagrams for the Fiero and the Cavalier a major difference that I found is in the ignition modules. The Fiero ignition module actually sets the base timing for the coils and a signal from the ECM varies the advance or retard. Whereas the Cavalier module is only there to fire the coils, it has no internal timing program. The Cavalier ECM sends a 12 volt signal to the module when it wants the coils to fire based obviously on many inputs. This is very similar to the way the LS series of coils works, only they are triggered by 5 volts not 12 volts (according to the Megasquirt web site). So my new problem that I have created for myself (in addition to many others) is how can I get a 12 volt signal to safely and reliably trigger a 5 volt coil. Or will the coils trigger off of a 12 volt signal and the megasquirt site is just using a more regulated signal. If I can get this new problem solved (and I do have the time to solve it) I will be able to mount four powerful coils on top of the valve cover. Granted the OE wasted spark system works great, I just think the LS coils have a higher cool factor. Plus I would have to remount the ignition module anyway, since the Fiero ignition module has the crank sensor bolted to the back of it then the assembly is bolted to the block down under the intake manifold (hard to change the wires). The cavalier uses a bolt in crank sensor and a remote mounted ignition module, so I could mount it where ever I so choose. So I figured why not complicate the issue and add something cool too? I really need to find someone that is good at electronics and building circuits. Hey, that's another problem. Just great.